Istanbul (not Constantinople)

We had a lot planned for our second full day in Istanbul – Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, Grand Bazaar, Turkish Baths.  We ended up fitting it all in, and even threw in a couple of extra activities. 

Our first stop of the day was Hagia Sophia, we got there mid-morning and the line was already rather long.  It moved quickly though and before we knew it we were inside the gates ready to explore.  For those of you who don’t know anything about Hagia Sophia you can read the full history of it by clicking here.  I studied the Hagia Sophia in undergrad in my art history classes and it was really cool to be there and see the incredible mosaics in person.  I truly felt that we were experiencing the history of Istanbul and really understanding what is meant when people say that it is the place where East meets West.  Here are a few photos:

Such a beautiful place

The crowd in Hagia Sophia

We exited Hagia Sophia to find that rain showers had moved in while we were inside, so we sat at the café for a few minutes to wait for the rain to pass and watched all the other tourists moving around us.  In the square between the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque is a big park with fountains and benches, it seemed like a good place to sit and enjoy the energy of the city, so we sat and Charles painted and I read and we just enjoyed letting the city move around us.  Several people came up and complimented Charles on his painting while we sat there.  We were offered shoe shines on two occasions – which was strange because we were both wearing running shoes.  Maybe they thought they could polish my blue and turquoise Brooks running shoes to an even brighter shine?!  Here is a pic of the artist at work:

When Charles finished painting we decided that it was time for lunch and headed to the Grand Bazaar.  We found a café tucked among the carpet vendors and textile stalls and ordered some kebabs.  After lunch we wandered through the Grand Bazaar not really looking for anything in particular and finding anything and everything under the sun.  Charles ended up with a new wallet, we felt very accomplished because we bargained the vendor down quite a bit.  We wandered up and down the halls of the Grand Bazaar being offered beautiful carpets (to match my shoes, yes the same Blue and Turquoise Brooks running shoes), spices, pastries, watches, purses, tapestries….  Eventually our senses were so overrun with colors and sounds and smells that we figured it was time to move on to our next activity.  We left the markets to find a beautiful mosque in the afternoon sun.

Entrance to the Grand Bazaar

Inside the bazaar

Mosque in the afternoon sun

Earlier in the day we had passed a barber and Charles mentioned he was interested in getting a shave.  We were trying to remember which direction the barber shop we had seen earlier was, when we saw a sign for a barber across the street.  So, we walked over and inquired how much.  The price was 10 Turkish Lira, which is about the equivalent of about $5-$6.  Unfortunately we had just used the last of our Turkish Lira to purchase Charles’ wallet so we had to go find an ATM, but once we had cash we went back so he could get his shave.  Going to the barber in Istanbul was a really cool experience.  We met a man inside by the name of Mahmet, or as he referred to himself, Crazy Mahmet.  Once he found out we were from Texas he started talking about the tv show Dallas in a combination of Turkish, English, and Jibberish.  He kept laughing and repeating the names of the characters from the show.  It was hilarious.  As he left the barber got started with the shave.  Charles’ beard was so long he cut it first with a duller blade, then again with a sharper one.  He did an excellent job.

Crazy Mahmet leaving the barbershop

Getting a shave

Post-shave

Post-shave we decided we would see if the Blue Mosque was open to visitors.  It was dusk and we knew that there would be a chance it was closed for prayer or possibly even for the rest of the evening.  When we arrived we were told that we could go inside in 15 minutes once evening prayer had ended.  We sat in the courtyard of the Mosque and waited.  It is a beautiful place to sit and wait.

Waiting to enter the Blue Mosque

Before you can go inside the mosque you have to remove your shoes and women must cover their heads.  Once inside there is a railing a third of the way into the mosque which is the barrier that visitors are not allowed to cross.  The decorations inside the mosque are incredibly detailed and intricate.  There was so much to look at and so much detail to admire. 

Inside the Blue Mosque

sock feet - Blue Mosque

Detail

It was nearing 6 p.m. and we had reservations at the Suleymaniye Hamam at 7:00 p.m., so we headed back to the hotel to drop off our day packs and relax for a few minutes.  We didn’t really know what to expect at the Turkish Baths.  I had read that it included 40 minutes or so of lying on a hot slab of marble within the bathhouse, followed by a ritual bathing and a soap massage, then a traditional method of drying.  It sounded interesting, but also kind of strange.  Let me tell you that it was awesome.  Definitely one of the most unique and enjoyable spa experiences I have had.  When you arrive they show you to a changing room where the men wrap themselves in a towel and the women are given shorts and a bikini top.  You are then taken into the baths which are heated steam rooms with marble benches and slabs inside.  Everyone spends about 30-40 minutes resting on the hot marble, which is supposed to warm the body and release toxins from the skin.  After about 40 minutes we were taken into a smaller room off the main bath where we were rinsed with cool water by our masseur.  Then you lay on a marble slab and they use a silk pillow case to douse you with soap suds.  Then you get a massage that incorporates not only the typical Swedish style rub down but also incorporates yoga like stretches and slapping the muscles.  Yes, I know it sounds weird and slightly unpleasant, but believe me when I say – it was awesome.  I don’t think I realized how tired and achy my body was from all the walking and backpack heaving.  We left feeling amazing. 

In the hamam

We were returned to our hotel at around 9:00 p.m. and we still hadn’t found dinner.  We figured our best bet was to walk somewhere nearby.  We found a restaurant with a cool rooftop dining area a few blocks from our hotel.  As someone who gets cold easily I appreciated the fact that they had blankets on the backs of the chairs in case you got cold, which of course I did.  The food was delicious.  I also had a glass of Turkish wine, which was really good.  I think maybe Turkish wine is underrated, it was delicious and inexpensive.  We had a visitor show up as we were eating, a white and grey cat.  There are stray cats everywhere in Istanbul.  As Charles said, Bob Barker would go nuts here with all the stray cats and dogs.  After our wonderful dinner we headed back towards our hotel and we walked by a shop selling lanterns and pottery.  There was a Russian woman and her son negotiating the price of the lanterns, we stood by and enjoyed the show.  I loved the lanterns – beautiful. 

Rooftop dinner

Lanterns

On the walk back to our hotel we passed by a café that offered hookah pipes with flavored tabacco, Charles felt compelled to give it a try.  I decided to have some mint tea.  Here is Charles with the hookah, or as they call it in Turkey the nargile.  

Hookah

 We really loved Turkey and can't wait to go back one day to explore more of the country.