Tuesday, September 18, 2012

Sauvignon Blanc and Baby Seals



We arrived in Blenheim on Monday around lunchtime.  We knew we wanted to check out the Marlborough wineries while we were in Blenheim, but otherwise we didn’t really have an agenda.  Our first stop was at the town information center, where we were able to book a wine tour for the next day.  Next up, we had to figure out lunch.  The bartender, Derek, at the Portlander in Wellington told us we should have lunch at the Brancott Estates Heritage Center, because of the amazing view.  We were out of groceries and needed to go to the store, so our first thought was that we should take care of that and just make sandwiches for lunch, but instead we decided to put it off and go to the Brancott Estates.    After all, you should never grocery shop on an empty stomach, right?  

I tried to use our trusty GPS device to navigate us to the restaurant, but because it’s so new, the address wouldn’t pull up when I typed it in.  So, we were left with the old fashioned map that we got from the information center in town.  We knew it was near the airport so we took the turn down the road that led us in that general direction, eventually we found the correct road and made a left turn.  We found it. We turned into a drive that led us through field after field of grape vines.  Atop a ridge just ahead of us was a modern building with large glass windows perched narrowly on the edge of a hill.  We parked and made the steep walk up to the Heritage Center.  

Charles driving in Marlborough wine country

We walked in and I felt instantly under dressed.  One thing about this type of travel is that you have a very limited outfit selection.  This restaurant was the type of place where I would normally want to have on nice jeans and boots with a cute sweater and scarf, my hair fixed, makeup on – basically showing I had some interest in my overall appearance.  Instead I was un-showered, with my hair in a ponytail, a smidge of mascara on, and the same jeans, Brooks running shoes, and fleece I had been wearing for weeks.  Oh well, it was wine tasting time, so no point in focusing on my atrocious appearance.  
  
We sat at a table, with a beautiful view of the vineyards and mountains and our waitress greeted us.  She told us the specials of the day, they all sounded wonderful, and overly indulgent for a lunchtime meal.  I decided on their salmon dish and Charles went with their fish of the day, which was Monk fish.  After we ordered our lunch, our waitress suggested we go over to the tasting counter to sample some wines.  We started of course with a Sauvignon Blanc which was wonderful.  We learned that Marlborough’s sunny warm days and cool mountain nights are what make the Sauvignon Blanc grapes do so well in this region and make the wines they produce so full of citrus fruit taste.  Next we tried a Chardonnay, which we both really loved.  They don’t make many Chardonnay’s in Marlborough, but this one was wonderful and buttery.  We also tried a Pinot Noir, which was also very good, it is the other grape that grows very well in the Marlborough region.   

Wine tasting at Brancott
 After our tasting we went back to our table and waited for our food to arrive.  As she set the plates in front of us I knew we were in for a good meal, the food was beautiful.  Charles and I both agreed that this was definitely the most gourmet meal we have had since we left Los Angeles.  After lunch, we took a few photos and then went to find where we were parking the campervan for the night.   

Lunch at Brancott

We checked in and decided to go into town to get food for dinner and check out the center of town.  We walked around the shops and squares to see what the town had to offer.  We stopped in Seymour Square to hang out for a bit, Charles worked on a painting and I did a little writing.  Then, we wandered back through town towards the Ark II. After our run to the grocery store we loaded everything in the fridge and compartments and headed back to the holiday park.  We have gotten used to the fact that almost every holiday park has movies to rent, so we were surprised to find out that this particular holiday park had no movies at all.  The campervan is pretty quiet dark and there isn’t much to do in the way of entertainment at the holiday parks, so we have come to look forward to a nightly movie.  The woman working at the holiday park recommended a movie store down the road, so we drove down to pick something up.  We were happy they loaned movies without a membership if you were willing to put down a $10 bond.  We picked out two movies since we were planning to stay two nights in Blenheim, we chose Contraband with Mark Wahlberg and Wanderlust with Jennifer Aniston and Paul Rudd.  We watched Contraband the first night, which was a great thriller/action movie.   

Tuesday morning we had our usual breakfast of muesli, yogurt and fruit with coffee.  Then we headed into town so Charles could get a haircut.  After his hair cut we went into a shoe store to look around.  I only brought my running shoes and a pair of ballet flats and was hoping to pick up a cheap pair of shoes since it’s a little too cold on the south island for ballet flats.  I found an inexpensive pair of boots and was quite happy.  We went back to the holiday park and got ready to go on our wine tasting.  

We were picked up by Jonathan with Bubbly Grape Tours at noon.  There was one other couple doing a half day and then we would be joining five others who were on a full day tour.  Once we had everyone assembled we began our drive to the first stop, Spy Valley.  I was really excited to go to Spy Valley, because it is one of my favorite Marlborough Sauvignon Blancs to buy at home.  

Spy Valley is in a valley that houses surveillance satellites that are part of the Echelon project, hence the name.  We learned that the estate uses lots of little plays on the fact that it is in this unique valley – they have a wine called Echelon and they have Morse code on all of their bottles.  The wine was really good, all of it!  It was definitely my favorite stop of the day.  As we were leaving we looked at the display cases near the door and were surprised to see that Spy Valley wines won awards at the Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo Wine event.  Next we went to Giesen wines where we had some more good wines.  Then we stopped for lunch, I had a great pumpkin and goat cheese panini – delicious!  Then, more wine tasting this time at Bouldevines.  Of course our favorite of all the wines we tasted were the sauvignon blancs – each winery had several different ones, since that is what Marlborough specializes in.  

Spy Valley

Spy Valley
 After all that wine tasting we decided that our plan for the late afternoon evening would be pretty simple – make dinner and watch a movie.  So, we made dinner in the campervan and watched Wanderlust.  It’s hilarious.  If you haven’t seen it I highly recommend it.  The next morning we decided to do a hike that Johnathan our guide on the wine tour suggested.  It was great, it offered amazing views of Blenheim and the ocean and we got to see tons of sheep, lambs, and cows.  

Hiking in Blenheim
After our hike and some lunch in the campervan we set out for Kaikoura, which is a small town on the east coast of the South Island that is known for whale watching.  We had heard from Derek at the Portlander that we could see baby seals in a waterfall just north of the town, so that was high on our priority list.  We arrived in town in the late afternoon and went straight to the center of town, which consists of one main street that is about three blocks long.  We went into a few shops and got suggestions about things to do in town, and learned again about the place to see the baby seals.  We stopped into another shop to check out winter clothing, because it was freezing in Kaikoura.  Charles got a fleece which has been a great purchase because the South Island is much colder than the North Island.   We went to check into our Holiday Park and decide on our plan for dinner.  We found the Top 10 park and checked in and decided to walk into town for dinner instead of cooking.  It was only about a 5-10 minute walk into town, and although it was freezing, it was so nice to be able to walk instead of drive the Ark II into town.  We found a pub called the Whaler and settled in for dinner by the fire.  

The next morning we got up to go see the baby seals.  We drove the Ark II back up the coast a bit to the Ohau Seal Colony.  There is a Department of Conservation trail that takes you up a stream to a waterfall, when the seals have pups they take them up the stream to the pool at the bottom of the waterfall while they go out to sea to feed.  We started the hike and began seeing seal pups playing in the stream. Then we got to the top and there were dozens of seal pups playing below a huge towering waterfall.  It was amazing.  It was like watching an exhibit at the zoo, except we were in nature and we were standing five feet from the seal pups.  

Baby seal pup jumping
That afternoon we planned to get lunch and find a place where Charles could do some painting and I could do some blogging.  Since Kaikoura is known for crayfish (or lobster as we would call it in the U.S.) we thought we should make sure to have some while we were there.  Kaikoura means “meal of crayfish” in Maori, so it was a necessity.  We had asked in town where we should go and everyone said to go to the Original Kaikoura Seafood BBQ, so that’s where we went.  It’s a food stand on the side of the road just outside of town.  We had crayfish fritters for lunch and Charles had their seafood chowder, it was all wonderful.  We sat outside at the tables next to the food stand and enjoyed the food, the fresh air, and the view.  Afterwards, we got ice cream!  Ice cream is huge in New Zealand, they talk about it on the radio all the time, so we had been wanting to get some for a while and we finally found a good spot.  It really was delicious.  
New Zealand Ice Cream in Kaikoura
 After our ice cream we decided we should get on the road and stop somewhere along the way for Charles to paint.  Here is the spot we chose:

Afternoon stop in Kaikoura to paint and write
It was a little cold, but it was worth it because the view was so amazing. 

Next up Christchurch....

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