Monday, August 13, 2012

Paranoid in Glacier


On our first day in Glacier we decided to check out Lake McDonald and then find a good hiking trail and squeeze in a hike before dinner.  We snapped some photos on the famous beach at Lake McDonald - the views are amazing, and the water is just as clear as we were told it would be.  
Charles at Lake McDonald

After checking out the trail map at the Ranger Station we set out for Avalanche Trail which was about 15 miles into the park on “Going to the Sun Road.”  We arrived at the trail head and debated on what we needed to bring with us on our hike.  Charles wanted to bring his nine iron, in case we came across a bear, but I told him that wasn’t necessary, plus we would look ridiculous hiking with a golf club.  So, we set off with just our cameras, some water, and a jacket.  We walked through some campsites and down a short trail that led through the cedars at the base of the mountain, it seemed pretty well populated and not a likely place where bears would hang out, I was feeling fine about this hike through bear country – even without the nine iron.  Then we got to the actual trail head and saw this sign: 
Bear and Mountain Lions frequenting the trail
I may be smiling in this picture, but I was a little freaked out after reading these signs.  But, we were in Glacier to hike and enjoy the scenery, so up we went.  The trail snaked along with the river, which was a beautiful blue green and freezing cold. 

There were still several other people on the trail, so I tried not to worry to much about surprising a bear or mountain lion.  I kept trying to come up with conversation topics to keep us talking loudly during the hike, but it is harder than you think to talk continuously while hiking.  As we went a little further and got away from the river, it seemed so quiet, too quiet, and shadowy, like there could be an animal lurking just above us in among all the trees.  So I decided I needed a stick to bang on things to make noise.  I wanted to make sure those bears and mountain lions stayed far away from me!  I found a stick about 3 feet long and sturdy enough to bang on rocks and tree trunks and we continued on.  I stopped banging whenever we met other people on the trail, but they probably all thought I was pretty nuts anyway.

Charles hiking along the river.
After about two miles we decided to turn back, the trail went on several more miles, but it was getting late and we needed to get dinner and check into our hotel for the night.  We stopped at a great view point of the valley just as some other hikers came up behind us.  They commented that we had found the good view and stopped to chat with us.  They were all pilots from various cities across the country Chicago, Minneapolis, Miami.  We told them a little about our trip and gave them a business card and after a little more visiting we parted ways to enjoy the rest of our hikes.  We made our way back to the trail head, me banging my stick most of the way back, just in case.  Once we were back to the car we filled up our water bottles and made our way back out of the park for dinner.  We stopped at one of the very few restaurant options in town, the Glacier Grill, on our way out of the park before checking into the Historic Tamarack Lodge for the evening.



Upon check-in we met the nicest woman behind the front desk.  She was very friendly inquiring about where we were from, our hike in Glacier, and eventually learning more about our trip.  By the end of our conversation we had learned how she ended up in Montana from California, and she was trying to convince us to move to Montana after our trip.  She sent us off to our cabin with keys in hand and told us she would see us in the morning at the continental breakfast.   The next morning she greeted us and visited with us while we ate our breakfast and told us about some good hiking options in the park.  She offered us bear mace, which is lent out to guests, but since we weren't returning to the lodge that evening, we didn't take any.  After eating we set out for the park again. 

Breakfast at the Historic Tamarack Lodge in Hungry Horse, MT
Our destination for the second day in Glacier National Park was Logan Pass, the plan was to do a hike from there and spend a couple hours hanging out before taking in the sights on the rest of "Going to the Sun Road."  We had seen signs for construction and had been warned of traffic, but we weren't prepared for the long line of cars waiting to go through the one way curvy pass high in the mountains.  They made everyone stop for about 15-20 minutes at the top as we waited for traffic coming from the other side.  We got out of the car to find that the pilots we met the day before were in the car behind us.  We visited with them a bit while we waited for our turn to go through the one way pass.
Traffic
After we finally got through the traffic jam we made it to Logan pass to find jam packed parking lots.  Determined to do a hike and explore the area we drove down the road a bit and found a shoulder to pull into and park.  As we were gathering supplies for our hike our pilot friends walked up next to the car, they had parked just a few cars down from us.  They say they weren't following us, but I began to wonder.  We finished gathering water, bug spray, and Charles' painting supplies and set off.  

Charles at Logan Pass with a Glacier Park shuttle

Once inside the Ranger Station at Logan Pass we started looking at the hiking options, the hike to the Hidden Lake Overlook was about 1.5 miles.  The ranger on duty said the lower part of the trail was closed because there was a mom and baby grizzly bear at the lake.  Sounded exciting to us - good hike and the chance to see bears from a safe distance.  We set off, Charles went ahead hoping to find a good painting spot (and hopefully catch a glimpse of the bears) and I took my time taking pictures along the way.

I ran into this guy on the way up to the lake. 

Mountain goat
I saw a marmot and some mountain goats on my way to the overlook.  And who should we run into again at the top of the mountain?  Our friends the pilots who seemed to be following us through Glacier.  We decided to get a picture together at the top.  (If you guys are reading - we're looking forward to hanging out in New Zealand!). 
Me with our pilot friends
On our way out of Glacier we stopped for a picnic near Lake St. Mary before heading toward the Canadian Border.  It was a short trip to Glacier, but we'll definitely be back. 

P.S. I've updated our photos, to see them all click on the "Our Photos" tab at the top of the blog. 

Friday, August 10, 2012

Sights and excitement in Yellowstone


We arrived at Yellowstone around lunch time on August 5th with a plan of attack.  We were determined to see as much of the park as we could in the two days we had.  After a quick lunch and a discussion about how we would handle it if a bear happened upon our feast, we set out.  
Arriving in Yellowstone

Our first stop was West Thumb Geyser Basin, which is an area of thermal activity that spills into part of Yellowstone Lake.  There were bubbling pots of mud and deep blue caverns of boiling water – it really is like being on another planet.  We stopped at the Sulfur Caldron and the Mud Volcano, both smelled horrific, but they were interesting to see.  
West Thumb Geyser Basin

Sulfur Caldron
Next, we continued on to the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone, which I didn’t realize is the location of the famous waterfall in Yellowstone that is the subject of so many photos and paintings.  It was great to see it in person.  Charles wanted to do a painting, so I decided to hike the trail to get a closer view of the waterfall.  The hike was awesome, although about 30 minutes in I realized hiking alone in bear territory might not be wise, at that very second I heard a sound and got a little spooked, then realized it was another hiker and felt slightly ridiculous.  I later figured out if you are hiking anywhere around any of the main attractions of the park, you won’t likely be alone for more than a few seconds, fellow tourists are everywhere.   
Shot of the waterfall from my hike

Charles in his painting spot

We finished out the day by making our way to Old Faithful, but unfortunately we missed the geyser by minutes.  I was a little disappointed that I didn’t get to see the geyser in all its glory, but I was able to snap a picture as it was simmering down, all in all a satisfying first day in Yellowstone. 

Evening at Old Faithful
 That night we stayed in West Yellowstone at Three Bear Lodge.  West Yellowstone is a cute little town that caters to tourists from the park.  After settling in we walked to the Wild West Saloon and Pizzeria for dinner and to catch up on Olympics coverage.  Great pizza!  I highly recommend it if you are ever in West Yellowstone.  It makes a great picnic lunch in the park the next day, if you have any left over. 

Our second day in Yellowstone we set out to see more sights and find a good place for Charles to work on a painting.  We settled on the Great Prismatic Spring, which is pretty incredible – it truly glows neon blues, turquoise, and orange on the horizon.  
Windy morning at Great Prismatic Springs

I set off on my own to see a few other nearby sights and do some journal writing, while Charles painted.  We met up again for a picnic lunch and to see the Mammoth Springs and Tower Fall.  
Picnic lunch - Charles had a picnic here as a kid with his family

After lunch we were driving to Mammoth Springs when we both thought we saw either a coyote or a wolf walking across a prairie.  We stopped at the next turnoff and decided to hike back to see if we could see the animal.  We never did spot it, but together decided it was likely a coyote.  We ended up walking to the Obsidian Cliffs, which made our failed wildlife expedition worthwhile. 

Looking for wildlife
 Our plan was to hike around Mammoth Springs and then swing by the Tower Falls before driving to Bozeman for the night.  A large rainstorm with some impressive lightning was the first diversion to our plan.  Since the lightning seemed close enough to be dangerous we decided to check out the Park Station nearby, get some water, and use the bathrooms.  We ended up arriving at the upper level of Mammoth Springs around 5:30 p.m. 

Charles parked the car and we were collecting cameras, rain coats, and water and getting out of the car when we heard a loud scrape, screams, then a crash.  Charles immediately handed me the keys and his things and ran up the hill to the other part of the parking area.  As I was running up after him I could only think that someone’s car had just gone off the edge into the boiling pit of thermal springs.  As I caught sight of the scene I was relieved to see that the car had not gone over, but had instead been stopped by one of the wooden bridges that allows people to walk down to the springs lower on the cliff.  My next concern was for the people in the car who were precariously hanging on the side of a cliff by a wooden structure.  A few minutes later I saw Charles carrying a dog and walking up from the car.  When he arrived at the accident a few seconds before me, he realized there were lots of spectators but no one doing anything, so he took action and helped the woman in passenger seat out of the car, then went back for the dog, and asked another man standing nearby to secure the parking brake on the car.  The whole thing was terrifying, but there were miraculously no injuries, and the only thing to do was to wait for the park ranger to arrive.  Charles and I took the job of making sure no one took the parking place in front of the car, so that a tow truck could pull the car to safety, as soon as one arrived.  

Surveying the scene
 As we waited I began talking to the family in the car, they were from Idaho and came to the park regularly.  The group of three was made up of the grandparents and their teenage granddaughter.  The granddaughter was driving and when they pulled into the parking place she forgot to put the car in park and got out.  The car immediately lunged forward with the grandmother still buckled into the front passenger seat.  The grandfather was standing at the back of the car getting out some camera equipment, he grabbed onto the car to try and keep it from going forward, but instead was pulled down scraping his knee and face on the gravel parking lot.  The grandmother luckily had been to the park often enough to know that the most secure part of the wooden structure in front of her was to the right, so she grabbed the steering wheel and veered the car into the largest part of the wooden bridge.  Had the car continued in the direction it was originally pointed, it would likely have taken the whole wooden bridge along with it and ended up in a thermal pool.  They were very lucky.  We waited as the rangers arrived and took charge of the scene.  Charles had to fill out an accident report and I visited more with the family, although rather shaken they were all very calm and grateful that the outcome left everyone unharmed.   

About an hour and a half after the accident a tow truck finally arrived.  They were able to pull the car out and we decided to say our goodbyes to the family.  We left them with a business card (yes, I made business cards for our trip) and told them I would write about it on our blog (so if you’re reading this – hello!).   Charles and I then set off on our delayed hike around Mammoth Springs, and as we were finishing we saw them drive out in their car – it was in good enough shape for them to drive it back to Idaho.  We ended up leaving the park around 8:00 p.m., later than expected, but with an exciting and memorable day behind us. 
Mammoth springs hike

Leaving the park









Thursday, August 9, 2012

Jackson Hole and the Tetons


We spent last Saturday night, August 4th, in Jackson Hole at Teton Village.  We had to drive through part of Teton National Park to get to our hotel and despite how tired and hungry we were after the long drive from Denver, we were both immediately excited and awed to see the Teton mountains.  We arrived as the sun was setting and received some amazing views. 
 
 
After checking into our hotel, The Alpenhof Lodge, we drove into Jackson to grab some dinner.  We ended up at the Snake River Brewing Company for dinner - good food, good beer, and the Olympics.

 
On Sunday morning we woke up and had a nice breakfast in the lodge.  After breakfast we loaded the car and set off for Yellowstone.  We drove out through Teton National Park and stopped a few times along the Snake River and Lake Jackson to take some photos and enjoy the scenery.  Despite how quick it was, we had a great time in Jackson and definitely plan to go back to Teton National Park.  

Wednesday, August 8, 2012

Journal Entry - August 6, 2012

We began this trip 10 days ago and in many ways it seems like only days ago...

Right now I'm sitting at an overlook in Yellowstone National Park.  I just looked up from my journal and saw a falcon swooping down into the Firehole River to catch a fish - amazing!  Along the banks of the river are bubbling cauldrons of turquoise blue water, spilling burnt orange into the river, as steam blows across.  To my right is the Great Prismatic Spring, glowing blue and orange on the horizon and steam billowing in the wind.  I have been fascinated with Yellowstone for a while and always wanted to visit.  Now that I am here I am amazed, all I can say is no matter how many National Geographic specials or documentaries you see - it doesn't do this place justice.  This place is truly majestic.

I feel so lucky to be here, not only in Yellowstone, but in this place with this lifetime opportunity before me.  Since leaving Houston we have visited two of the national parks in the United States that I have wanted to see most.  Tomorrow we are heading to the 3rd.  The only two parks on my list to visit after this trip are Yosemite and the Grand Canyon, but I'll get to them eventually.  We live in a beautiful country!!


Monday, August 6, 2012

First stops in the Rockies

We have covered about 1500 miles in my little Subaru since leaving Dallas on Tuesday, and we have seen some of the most beautiful parts of our country. 

We spent Wednesday and Thursday hanging out in Colorado Springs with family - Charles' brother Andrew, his wife Rachel, and daughter Brittany.  We went on a short hike on Wednesday near Manitou Springs, but due to some erosion from the recent fires and rain, we didn't make it very far up the trail.  Later in the day we went to a great park in Andrew's neighborhood and got some more exercise exploring the trails.  The hike turned into a bit of a photo expedition, which distracted us a little from the exercise focus of the trip, but we got some great pictures.

Testing out the tripod and timer.


Not sure what is going on here....


Thursday afternoon we drove up to Denver to hang out with our friends Lee and Betsy for the evening.  They took us to a great little bar in the Capitol Hill district of Denver called Stoney's, where they play trivia every Thursday night.  We enjoyed being a part of such an intellectual team, if only the last question was based on something other than pop music trivia!  Here is a pic from the evening:

With Lee and Betsy at Thursday night Trivia
On Friday morning Betsy and I went for a walk around Washington Park in their neighborhood, the weather was gorgeous and we had a chance to catch up on life.  After the walk we went to a local breakfast spot to meet Lee and ate some amazing bagels and breakfast burritos.  While we were there we encountered an eavesdropper who overheard we were going to India - he must have had a bad experience there because he was dead set on convincing us we would contract terrible diseases and be stranded there in a massive power failure - Debbie Downer.  After breakfast we visited the Kirkland Museum in Denver, which is an eclectic museum featuring the art of Vance Kirkland, local Colorado artists, and a collection of furniture and glassware from the Art Deco and Art Nouveau periods.  We loved it!
Kirkland Museum in Denver

 
Charles and Lee with some of the eclectic collection
Late Friday afternoon we met up with Charles' friend Jeff for an evening in the mountains.  We went to the South Platte River and hung out for a few hours, then went to a restaurant called the Buck Snort Saloon.  I am still wondering how Jeff ever found this place, it's in the middle of nowhere and the only thing on the way are little shanty houses built into the rocky mountainside.  The Buck Snort Saloon is definitely worth visiting if you ever find yourself in Sphinx Park, Colorado - although I have no idea how to tell you to find the place!


Charles and Jeff setting out on their hike.

Our spot on the South Platte River

Charles, Jeff and Sara at Buck Snort Saloon

On the deck at the Buck Snort

Outside the Buck Snort

All in all, our time with friends and family in Colorado was perfect - thanks for the hospitality!!

Wednesday, August 1, 2012

And away we go.......

We set out for Dallas at about 5:00 p.m. on Saturday evening, we had planned to leave at 2:00 p.m., but packing for a long trip seems to take longer than both of us anticipated.  We spent Saturday doing all the last minute things to get ready to go - making sure everything was packed, loading the car, last minute laundry and dishes, handing off keys to our friends and neighbors who are using/watching our condo while we are gone.  We finally arrived in Dallas and spent some time with my family, then went to hang out with some friends at a Korean karaoke bar called Family Karaoke.  The place was a blast, you can rent a private room and sing your heart out with microphones and tambourines to American music set to Korean music videos.  Here are a few pics:
The Family Karaoke bar

Charles and Brian signing Master of Puppets by Metallica

Still singing

The first appearance of the UT koozie
The rest of our time in Dallas was spent catching up with friends and family.  It was really great to see everyone and be able to visit before being gone for several months.  We are so lucky to have such great supportive and interested people to support us on this journey! 

We left Dallas on Tuesday morning to head to Colorado Springs to spend a few days with Charles brother, sister-in-law, and niece.  It was a long day of driving (about 12.5 hours), here are a few of the highlights*:

All packed
Jolly, Texas
Finally in New Mexico

Sunset - Mount Capulin, New Mexico


For the next few days we'll be spending time in Colorado Springs and Denver before heading up to Jackson Hole and Yellowstone on Saturday. 

*For more photos, go to "Our Photos" page above which will take you to our SmugMug account.