Showing posts with label Prague. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Prague. Show all posts

Thursday, November 1, 2012

Soccer, Sightseeing, Symphony, Smoke, Snow, and the Subway to a Soviet Era Bunker Bar


Soccer:
We went to a Europa League match on Thursday evening between Sparta Prague and H. Kiryat Shmona.  The stadium was high on the hill north of the Old Town, just past the park that formerly held a giant statue of Stalin.  The statue is no longer there and has been replaced with a giant abstract statue.  I need to look up more about the giant red statue, but haven’t had a chance yet.  Here’s a picture:  

Sculpture in the place of the former Stalin Statue

Shoes and the sculpture replacing Stalin

We arrived at the game and went through the gate to find our seats, we were disappointed that they were only selling non-alcoholic beer and instead I settled for some water.  We were really lucky with the weather, it was cold, but not rainy.  The game was very exciting, there were two goals scored by Sparta Prague in the first 15 minutes.  The crowd was incredible – singing, chanting, stomping, clapping, and doing the wave – I loved just being among the fans.  The game wasn’t the most even match up and Sparta Prague pretty much ruled the field the entire game.  The other team did finally score a goal in the second half, but Sparta Prague came back and scored one more goal making the final score 3-1.  

Stadium in Prague

Fans


Sightseeing:
Friday we spent the day doing more sightseeing.  We went to the Municipal House, which is one of Prague’s many symphony halls, to purchase tickets to see a performance of pieces by Mozart and Chopin that evening.  Next we walked through Old Town Square stopping in the Church of St. Nicholas Hussite Church, which had a huge beautiful chandelier hanging in the center of the church.  We made our way to the Jewish Quarter to visit the Jewish Museum.  The Jewish Museum is a collection of exhibitions housed in several synagogues in Prague, which took many decades to become what it is today: 
While the whole experience left us feeling rather somber, we enjoyed learning more about the history of the Jewish people in Prague, and we were awed by the beauty of the synagogues, especially the Spanish Synagogue, which is beautiful. 

After a quick lunch break we continued across the Charles Bridge and stopped to see the John Lennon Wall, which you can read about here.  It was really cool to see the wall after visiting the Communist Museum a few days before.  

John Lennon Wall in Prague

Lennon Wall
Our last tourist stop of the day was the St. Vitus Cathedral, Prague Castle grounds – Basilica of St. George and the Golden Lane.  St. Vitus is a beautiful gothic cathedral with towering stained glass windows.  It took centuries to build and it was interesting to distinguish the newer from the old within the building.  The Basilica of St. George was interesting because it is a Romanesque church but the façade was updated in the Baroque style - interesting combination.  (Sorry – art history nerd comment).  The Golden Lane is a series of houses and shops built into the old city wall, which means they are all miniature.  The part above the houses is a walkway that used to allow knights to patrol the exterior castle wall and it is now filled with medieval weaponry, armor, and a place where tourists can shoot a cross-bow.  Of course, Charles had to give it a shot.

Charles shooting the cross-bow

Golden Lane


Symphony:
Friday evening we went to the Municipal House to hear the Prague Orchestra perform pieces by Mozart and Chopin.  It was wonderful.  

Musicians preparing to play in the Municipal House

Our balcony seats

Smoke:
After the symphony performance we went to have a beer at a pub on the Old Town Square.  Unfortunately, Prague is smoky – people smoke everywhere.  We didn’t last very long in the smoky pub and went home feeling like everything we had on reeked of smoke.  Yuck.

Snow: 
Saturday morning we woke up to snow.  It snowed the entire day and we enjoyed hanging out in Prague on a snowy day.  We ducked into a couple of museums to warm up and take a break from the snow showers.  Our first stop was the Museum of Decorative Arts and the second was the Prague Museum of Medieval Art.  
Cold, snowy Saturday in Prague

Enjoying the snow!


Subway to Soviet Era Bunker Bar:
Our last night in Prague we decided to head to the outer districts of the city to a bar that is housed in an old Soviet Era Bunker, and so we took the escalator down into the subway station to find our way.  We figured out the ticket machine and found the right subway line and we were on our way.  We emerged in one of the outer districts of Prague and at first were a little nervous, but we eventually found a little restaurant in the Zizkov neighborhood to have dinner and were feeling better about our decision.  The food was great and we seemed to be the only tourists in the place – awesome.  It was snowing again when we left the restaurant and made our way down the street and over a pedestrian bridge into the park that houses the bunker.  We meandered along referencing the map we had saved onto Charles’ iPhone and we found it.  It was bizarre.  The door was open, but there was no one standing there, we could hear voices coming from down below, so we went in and descended the long spiral staircase.  We were about three-stories down when we came upon the place where you pay cover to get in.  We paid and set out to get a beer and explore.  The beer was by far the cheapest we had paid the whole time we were in Prague, about $1.50 per beer, granted it was served in a plastic cup, but that kind of added to the novelty of the place.  They were playing heavy metal in the front room and we meandered through the series of long tunnel like rooms until we came to the end where a band was setting up to play.  Unfortunately, the smoke and the smells within the bunker combined with the late hour and the fact that we had a flight the next day (and maybe because we are too old to be hanging out past 11:00 p.m.) meant we only stayed for about 40 minutes, but we were happy we took the chance to seek it out and can say we hung out with locals in a Soviet Era Bunker Bar.

Outside the bunker bar in Prague

Inside one of the bunker tunnels

Taking the escalator down into the subway

Waiting for the train
Sunday morning we said farewell to Prague, and boarded a plane bound for Istanbul.    

Thursday, October 25, 2012

Our first few days in Prague

We are currently in Prague, we arrived on Monday and have taken our time exploring the city.  It is a beautiful city.  The number one priority for us when we got here was finding a place to do laundry.  We lucked out and found a laundry service across the street from our hotel.  After solving the laundry dilemma, we decided to do a little exploring.  We walked across the Charles Bridge and back, found a great little place for dinner that was much cheaper than anywhere we ate in Italy, then wandered around the shops in Old Town Square.  All in all, a good first day in Prague.

The company that I used to book our shuttle from the airport to the hotel offered a free tour of the city and so I decided to go on Tuesday morning, while Charles painted.  So, I met the group at the Astronomical Clock at 11:00 a.m. and we set off on the 4 hour tour.  Our tour guide Monika was wonderful!  I really enjoyed her information on the places we visited and loved her humor throughout the tour.  I took lots of photos, I'll post them on SmugMug soon.

Charles met me at the back of St. Vitus Cathedral after the tour and we walked down the hill back to the center of town together.  We picked up our laundry on our way back to our hotel and were both way too excited about our clean clothes!

Fall afternoon in Prague

Clean Laundry!!
That evening we went to find a small pivovar (brewery) that Charles read about in a list of things to do in Prague put out by Time Magazine.  The pivovar is in a small hotel and they have a brew that they have been making since 1466.  The beer is aptly named 1466 and so we went to try it.  Charles had a 1466 and I tried another of their beers, the Oldgott.  The beer was very good, but unfortunately they still allow smoking in most bars and restaurants here, so we didn't stay very long.  

Charles at U Medvidku trying the 1466
Yesterday we decided to go to the Museum of Communism, which we had seen recommended on a couple of tour guide websites.  So, we set off in the morning, with one important stop along the way - the Nike Store.  Why, would we want to go to the Nike Store you might wonder, well it's because it is where the tickets to the Sparta Prague vs. H. Kiryat Shmona F.C. Europa League game are sold.  So, we went in and bought our two tickets to the game this evening.  The Museum of Communism was worth a visit, it's small and the actual artifacts and items displayed are not overly impressive, but it contains a very informative presentation of Prague's struggle under the communist regime from WWI through the present.  There is also a documentary shown that includes video of Prague in the time leading up to the Velvet Revolution.  We left the museum very glad we had visited, but feeling very somber.
 
Museum of Communism
After lunch we went to the House of the Black Madonna, which is a building built in the Cubist style.  We could not figure out what the significance of the Black Madonna was, other than that there is a statue of a Black Madonna on the corner of the building.  So, if anyone knows the significance or story behind her, please email us.

Last night we had dinner at the Strahov Monastery Brewery, which I learned about from my tour with Monika.  The beer is brewed and sold only at the monastery.  We had great beer and great food and enjoyed the views from above the city.

Park near the Strahov Monastery

Monastery Brewery

Strahov Pivovar - Monastery Brewery

Trout